Six steps to the perfect floor.

Measure the room, calculate the material, set the centre line, pick the method, plan the edges, order. No wrong buys, no surprises.

The difference between "ordered the floor and it fits" and "I'm five tiles short" is 20 minutes of planning. We'll walk you through them.

6 steps to the right order

1

Measure the room

Measure the length (longest wall, corner to corner). Measure the width (shortest wall, corner to corner). Record recesses separately: door recesses, radiators, columns. Make a sketch – a floor plan with dimensions on paper. Tip: rooms are rarely exactly rectangular. Measure at several points and take the largest dimension.
2

Calculate the material you need

Basic formula: Area (m²) = length × width. Plan for waste: rectangular room +5 %, angled room +10 %, diagonal installation +15 %. Example: room 5 m × 4 m = 20 m². Angled → +10 % → 22 m². With 1×1 m tiles: order 22 tiles.
3

Set the centre line

Draw the centre line in the room and lay from the middle outwards – not out of a corner. The reason: rubber tiles have up to 1.5 % tolerance in edge length, which is around 7.5 mm over a 5-metre row. If you start in the corner, that deviation adds up across the whole room and ends up plainly visible at the opposite wall. From the middle it spreads to both sides and disappears under the skirting. One axis is enough – lengthways or crossways does not matter.
4

Choose the installation method

Four options – Connect system, puzzle system, loose installation or bonding. Which one suits you depends on use and room situation. Comparison table further down.
5

Plan the perimeter finish

Ramps and corners decide how the floor area looks and whether it's step-free. Free-standing area: ramps all around + 4 corners. Wall to wall: no ramps, skirting is enough. Partial area: ramps on the open sides. A door that opens into the room: start the floor behind the door's swing area or cut the swing area out. You rarely need a ramp there.
6

Checklist before ordering

Room measured, floor area calculated, waste factored in, centre line drawn, installation method chosen, product family selected, ramps and corners planned, subfloor checked (level, dry), delivery route sorted (kerbside or pick-up). All ticked off → ready to order.

Area & tile calculator

Choose your floor and enter the room dimensions. We'll work out the area, waste, tile count and estimate the price.

Floor area –
With waste –
Number of tiles –

Estimate excluding shipping and any volume discounts. Get in touch for a binding quote.

Delivery, weight, pick-up

The haulier delivers to the kerbside at your delivery address – not into the basement. From there you carry it yourself. Reckon with around 20 kg per 1×1 m tile at 25 mm: 30 m² come to around 600 kg, about an hour's work for two people.

The alternative: pick-up from us in Pfäffikon. Many customers do that – and find it worth mentioning in their reviews.

Installation methods compared directly

Method EffortRemovable without residueWhen to use
Connect system (HG PRO CONNECT 25) Medium, no toolsYesRented premises, heavy use, rock solid hold wanted
Puzzle system (CORE 15 Puzzle, LITE 6 Puzzle) Low, no toolsYesHome gym, temporary areas
Loose installation (tiles without connector) Low, no toolsYesWall to wall, under heavy equipment
Bonding High, adhesive/railsNoPermanent installation, studio area

Ramps and corners – don't forget them

Step-free transitions and clean external corners are usually only noticed once they're missing. Trip hazards, open edges that curl up, a crooked transition to another flooring – all of it comes from missing ramps and corners. Factor them in from the start.

Subfloor and room – three questions from our consultations

Three questions about the floor that keep reaching us. All of it comes from consultations and customer feedback – not from measurements.

Damp basement. It is rarely an issue, and we do not measure anything for it. Lay the floor loose, not glued, and lift a tile every now and then to check underneath. With HG PRO CONNECT 25, air can circulate under the studded underside – it is also the floor we recommend on a damp subfloor. The 15 mm lines and ECO PRO 25 lie flat.

Underfloor heating. Yes, that works – we have never had a complaint about a cold room. Three things, in this order:

  • Never screw into the floor. Hitting a heating pipe means serious damage straight away.
  • No dropping like in weightlifting without additional damping (Shock Absorb, Dropping Mat). Setting the bar down normally is fine.
  • The room can get slightly cooler. In practice that has never been a problem.

Our recommendation here too: HG PRO CONNECT 25. There is no need to drop to 15 mm just because of the heating.

Rack and rig. Whether the floor or the rack goes in first rarely matters. What counts is the hold: in a CrossFit gym or larger studio you cut out the floor under the feet of the rig and bolt the rig directly into the concrete – no soft layer in between, otherwise it wobbles. In a home gym it is enough to stand the rack on the floor and screw through the tile. Cutting out gives the best hold but is not essential; some racks stand securely without being bolted down. With underfloor heating: no screws, the rack stands free.

One note up front: this is not millimetre work

Rubber tiles have production-related tolerances – up to 1.5 percent deviation in edge length. That's normal and comes with the material. Rubber reacts to temperature, humidity, transport and sunlight.

That's why these are the two most important measures during installation:

  • Staggered laying pattern: evens out small deviations, doesn't show visually.
  • 48 h acclimatisation before and after installation: at 18–26 °C, tiles laid out flat and individually.

With these two points you get a clean joint pattern every time – even if individual tiles deviate slightly.

Don't fancy doing the installation?

We get it. We have partner companies in Switzerland we can recommend, or we come by ourselves – depending on project size and region. A call or a message with a dimensioned drawing is enough.

Common questions about planning

How precisely do I have to measure?
To the nearest half centimetre is enough. The tiles are made with a few millimetres of tolerance, and the 5–10 mm perimeter gap to the wall absorbs inaccuracies.
What happens if I order too many tiles?
Keep them. Floor repairs are the most common case – you swap a damaged tile in five minutes if you have a spare. Otherwise you have to reorder, and batches can differ slightly in colour.
Can I combine different thicknesses?
In principle yes, but not at the same level. If you want ECO HEAVY 40 only under the platform and HG CORE 15 all around it, you need a transition. Better: the same thickness across the whole area.
Do I need a professional for the installation?
For Connect, puzzle and loose installation: no, you do that yourself. For bonding: recommended, especially on larger areas. On request we'll name installation partners in Switzerland, or we come by ourselves.
What does installation by you cost?
On request, depending on area, method and travel. Send us a dimensioned drawing – you'll get an assessment.
Why don't all tiles fit to the millimetre?
Rubber is not a millimetre-precise material. Production-related, there is up to 1.5 percent tolerance – that's normal. The staggered laying pattern and the 5–10 mm perimeter gap absorb it. With clean installation, nothing shows visually.

Ready to order?

If you're still unsure which line fits: the comparison page has the answer.

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